Engines

Performance comes from experience, not from a parts catalog. Every engine is part of a system that includes intake, exhaust and ignition, and every part of an engine needs to work in harmony with those and all other internal parts. Successfully modified engines require a good bit of knowledge to design, great attention to cleanliness and fine detail, and meticulous workmanship to assemble.

The first consideration in a performance build is to improve efficiency by reducing friction, parasitic losses, and - very importantly - improving combustion characteristics, which were not properly understood back when Volvo designed the B18 and B20. Very noticeable gains can be had by addressing these factors, even when using entirely stock parts, and most home rebuilders or local machine shops will sail right past those opportunities. This is why I only build complete engines rather than offering kits or subassemblies.

These efficiency improvements provide a solid foundation for whatever other modifications are called for, and add very little to the overall cost of an engine. Well-engineered mods that complement one another don't just add up, they compound - a 10% improvement in one area plus 10% in another area plus 15% in yet another produces more than a 35% gain if properly executed. As an illustration, let's say we start off with a 100 HP engine, just to make the math easy:

• 100 HP + 10% from efficiency = 110 HP
• 110 HP + 10% from a hotter cam = 121 HP
• 121 HP + 15% from head porting = 139.2 HP

Contrast to the same engine without the efficiency mods:

• 100 HP + 10% from a hotter cam = 110 HP
• 110 HP + 15% from head porting = 126.5 HP

You get the idea. Also, the combustion improvements in particular permit a higher compression ratio for any given camshaft and gasoline octane rating without fear of pinging or detonation, and higher compression is itself a further efficiency mod.

Every engine is individually designed according to the customer's performance expectations, intended use, desired intake system, budget and other considerations, but here are some general engine concepts and ballpark prices. All include new pistons, cam and lifters, all bearings and bushings, oil pump, water pump, refurbished rocker arms, a very nice paint job and stainless hardware where appropriate (I like them to look as good as they run). All are safe to run on unleaded fuel

Enhanced Stock - low- to mid-$3000 range
All efficiency mods, Volvo D cam (instead of the A or C used in carbureted engines), 10.0:1 compression, rotating assembly accurately blueprinted and balanced, flywheel lightened. Works well with stock carburetors (SUs may require different needles) or D-jet injection, 2" exhaust recommended (the Simons Sport Exhaust sold by IPD, Skandix and others is appropriate).

Sport - mid-$4000 range
The Enhanced Stock engine plus a very well-ported head. Similar intake and exhaust requirements. This is a nice "bang for the buck" point for many people, and pulls plenty hard enough to be lots of fun.

Super Sport - low- to mid-$5000 range
The Sport engine plus custom Ross Racing forged pistons, custom Schneider Racing cam, possibly larger exhaust valves (depends on the cam selection), possibly higher compression (also depends on the cam), Isky lifters, pushrods and double valve springs, and Cloyes timing gears. This engine will benefit fron carburetion that supports more power than the stock carbs (Weber side-drafts or Mikuni flat-slides), D-jet will require programmable fuel control (I like the SDS system), and a 2.5" exhaust is recommended.

Brute - $6000 range
The Super Sport engine plus big-bore pistons, bigger intake and exhaust valves, more porting and reshaped combustion chambers. Similar intake and exhaust requirements, may benefit from a good header. You'll scare V8-powered cars with one of these.

Racing - Prices vary
These could be anything from a vintage-legal 1830cc B18 to a near-stock ITB B20 (most of the efficiency mods are legal, though) to a Targa big-bore stroker, and prices vary accordingly.

Shipping costs are typically about $325 coast-to-coast including crating, and less for shorter distances. I can usually provide engine cores for around $300, so it may or may not make sense to ship your engine to me for rebuilding, depending on where you are. Cores are not included in the prices listed above.

Allow six weeks for an Enhanced Stock or Sport build, eight to ten weeks for a Super Sport or Brute, as there's some lead time involved in getting custom pistons and cams made. I will need roughly one-third down to begin a project, another third when machining is finished, and the balance upon completion. I stand behind my work and will support you in every way I can regarding installation, break-in and tuning if I'm not doing that work on your car myself.